Livingston, Guatemala and up the Rio Dulce to Burnt Cay (Texan Bay)

Livingston, Guatemala

We are in Guatemala having completed all the formalities for a 3 month stay.  We will apply for a 9 month extension before the 3 months are up, but the procedure to do that keeps changing.  The system is going through procedural changes so we are not sure what's up but as it stands we just have to go back to Livingston and apply.  When we checked in it is was simple we called Raul, the agent, and his nephew and all the officials came out to the boat.  They were there maybe 15 minutes then said our papers would be ready in 40 minutes and we could come into town, pay the fee and get our papers and passports.  We walked up the street to the bank to get our Quetzals, the Guatemalan money and then to Raul's for our papers.  We didn't stay in Livingston long, we checked in and headed back to the boat to head up the river to spend the evening in a safe anchorage.  Livingston is known for petty thefts and wakes from all the boats.  We anchored that night in Burnt Cay, formerly Texan Bay.

Main Street Livingston, Guatemala

Main Street Livingston, Guatemala

Right outside Raul's office is the area where the locals do laundry.  We wish they had a place like that here at our Marina.

Laundromat, Livingston, Guatemala

The pictures of the River can not do it justice it is so beautiful!  It was also a very cloudy day when we traveled through here.

Rio Dulce

Captain Mike at the Helm

Rio Dulce

Rio Dulce

  

Rio Dulce

The local people travel the river in cayucos, a canoe that is dug out of a tree.  We saw children going to school, fisherman and mothers taking their children into town.

Mother and child in a Cayuco

Fisherman in a Cayuco

A little girl taking her mom and brothers somewhere

A little girl going to school in here uniform

Burnt Cay Marina (formerly Texan Bay)

Our anchorage at Burnt Cay

Cheers for now, more about our Marina and the town later Kim and Mike

Rio Dulce, Guatemala

We are up the river Rio Dulce in Guatemala at our dock at the El Tortugal Marina. It is beautiful here! Will post some pictures when we get the internet set up.

Cheers Mike and Kim

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Placencia, Belize

Ka'imi at anchor in Placencia, Belize

We are in Placencia, Belize a little bit sooner than expected.  We have been here since Thursday, May 1st.  We noticed oil or fuel under the engine block while we were in Cay Caulker, but thought it very minor.  At Colson Cay we noticed that is was getting worse so we decided to get to Placencia were there was a town and a protected anchorage.  We left Colson Cay and anchored overnight outside the Blue Ground Range Islands.

Blue Ground Range

We left the next morning with light wind allowing us to use the Spinnakerand sail directly to Placencia.  Soon we lost all wind and started the motor but found our raw water pump was not spinning. The raw water pump draws cool salt water into the engine to cool the water that runs through the engine.  With that not working the engine will heat up and sieze.  We quickly put the Spinnaker back up but it was taking us directly to land, not a good place.  Mike worked on it a bit but wasn't having any luck. The wind picked up suddenly and it was enough to get all four of our sails up, the Genoa, Staysail, Main and Mizzen.  We would have to tack all day to get to Placencia, but at least we could sail.....uhhh...that is until the wind completely died again.

Spinnaker Up

We were 7 miles outside of Placencia and the plan had been once we get to the harbor we would drop the dinghy with a 15 horse engine, tie it to the side of Ka'imi and use it as a motor getting us to the anchorage. We decided to drop the dinghy right then and there in calm seas and no wind to power us into Placencia. We were not sure we had enough gasoline to make it all the way but at least we would be closer.  We took turns of about 2 miles each and it was HOT.  We took our water bottles and drank some then poured it on top of us.  The good news is we had enough fuel to make it all the way and anchored safely in the harbor.

We had three dolphins on our Bow when we left Blue Ground Range they are good luck for us.

Wonder what would of happened if we wouldn't of seen the dolphins.hmmm

At anchor we secured the sails and straightened things up then sit down to a well deserved beer or 12.  We went to sleep then woke up at 1:00 am to a squall.  The winds were near 25 and the rain was massive, it was more rain than I have ever seen.  As it approached us it sounded like a swarm of cicada's coming at us. We looked at each other and said what's that, then boom it poured.  It lasted 2 hours with lots of lightning and rain.   Some of the lighting strikes came very close.  After an hour our dinghy was full of water.  We usually bring it up on the davits and take the plug out so we don't have this problem, but we left it down that night in case we had a problem like dragging our someone else dragging.  So Mike went out and emptied the dinghy, it took a long time!  We then brought the dinghy up on the davits, yes in the middle of the lightning and rain, it is not always paradise with this lifestyle, sometimes its sheer panic and well...bad!  We were worried about dragging with strong winds a not having a motor, but the rest of the night went better and we finally got to sleep.  The morning makes everything better, Mike was able to fix the raw water pump and the engine is running, we do want to watch it and baby it a bit until we get to a dock at the Rio Dulce, Guatemala where we can make sure it is all fixed.

Speaking of Rio Dulce, that is where we are headed.  We will probably leave Placencia Monday and sail overnight to the mouth of the Rio arriving early Tuesday morning when there will be a high tide.  The mouth of the river is 5.5 ft a MLW and we draft 6 ft so we have to go at high tide.

Placencia is a nice little village.  We are able to tie up our dinghy at Yoli's Bar and from there you can get anywhere in town.  There is plenty of fresh fruits and vegetables, ice cream and groceries.  The beer is Belikin and it is quite nice :).  I will post some pictures of the village below.

Yoli's Bar where we tie up our dinghy and occasionally have a beer.

Wallen's Grocery Store at ground level and Pharmacy at top where we shop.

One of many fruit and vegetable vendors.

Typsy Tuna fun bar and grill on the beach.

Typsy Tuna Beach View

John The Bakerman where we get our bread.

Inside  his shop.

John making bread, he is following in his father's footsteps.

The one mile sidewalk along the beach.

Shortcut to the beach between a restaurant and house.

Beautiful houses along the sidewalk.

We are doing exceptionally well, happy and healthy!  Cheers  Mike and Kim

Laundry Day

Trash Day

Colson Cays, Belize

We have left Middle Long Cay our 3 mile long mangrove island and have anchored in the Colson Cays a collection of 5 mangrove islands still giving us good protection from the predicated strong S-SE winds that should of hit Sunday - Wednesday. So far the winds have not been bad so we decided to move south in search of coral, palm trees and beaches. Our stay at Middle Long Cay was very sedate, the highlights of our day yesterday was a swim off the boat to clean the prop, of course Kim strayed :)..I have to keep a watch out for sharks I keep telling Mike..he isn't buying it. Oh well, I returned to check on him and seeing he was doing okay and no sharks around I started to swim away when I found something attached to my upper left arm. I tried to pull it off and it was like attached, finally I get it off and it starts swimming towards me. I screamed!! Zombie miniature flesh eating crabs! Mike looks up with a WTF look...what is it he says. I tell him it's a flesh eating crab and he tells me he had one on him too, guess who was the first one to the swim ladder...Mike of course. We get out of the water and since we are all alone in this anchorage our big highlight was showering naked on deck. As I was showering we notice the 5 foot resident barracuda coming to visit. The boat turned a bit and blocked the wind and Mike looked down and saw a crystal clear image of the Barracuda staring at him and baring his teeth. Mike asked me later, how come you are not afraid of sharks but you can't handle a 1/4 inch crab hanging on to your flesh. I told him I'm afraid of spiders too :)

We are not sure what is going on but for the past 3 days there has been a heavy smoke covering the area from Honduras to the top of the Yucatan Peninsula. This morning and today it has been really bad, the visibility is 1 - 1.5 miles and my throat hurts and eyes burn. If anybody knows what is going on we would love to know we don't have much news information out here. We think that it is probably coming from the Honduras coast as the winds have been E-SE which would make it originate from that area, we are on the outer reef at about the central part of Belize.

So far Colson Cays are nice but it is just ugly out, depending on the weather we will head to Tobacco Cay tomorrow which is where we will find our coral, palm trees and beaches. Tobacco Cay sits right on top of the outer reef. We will continue south to South Water Cay and then turn right and start heading to Placencia to stock up on provisions and check out of the country. We will make a stop between here and Placencia at Pelican Cays to see what is there. I heard, from my friend Juuuulie, that there is a couple from the Marathon area that bought an island there and opened a restaurant so we will see if we can find them. When we check out of Placencia we may head down to Sapodilla Cay area until we make a run to the Rio Dulce entrance at Livingston, Guatemala where we will head up the river to El Tortugal Marina for hurricane season.

There is only one other boat in the anchorage and they are about a mile away, so our journey south has been very quiet.


Cheers Mike and Kim

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Middle Long Cay, Belize

We are anchored at Middle Long Cay, N 17.16.608, W 088.05.273. We are waiting for some high winds to hit and this island offers great protection from E-SE winds. We had been alone for a day and a half, now another boat has come in and anchored at the other end of the island. So far the wind has not hit it is supposed to pick up tonight and stay until Wednesday. The cold front that is coming off the US coast right now is pulling the air from down here and that causes us to have high winds. They could get up to 30 knots, but we are hoping they are only 20-25 knots.

We sailed from Cay Caulker to Water Cay and stayed overnight then made a short sail over here to Middle Long Cay. This island and Water Cay are a lot like the Florida Keys and the mangrove islands. The water is very clear and lots of star fish and a few coral heads. We have seen lots of large turtles while sailing in Mexico and Belize and we saw a smaller one in this anchorage. They were mostly Hawksbill turtles. We are very close to a fishing camp and yesterday as we were checking out the shore line we saw a fishing boat with what I thought was ten guys slowing down and coming close. It is very normal to have these fishing boats approach you and offer to sell fish, but there are usually 2-3 not ten, so I got a little nervous and we headed back towards the boat. As they approached the boat we saw that it was a family, three adults and about 5-6 children...boy was I relieved. I waved at the kids and they were very excited, they just wanted to sell us fish of course. While in Water Cay we also had the guardian of the fish camp and self appointed Harbor Master approach us to sell some fish and lobster, but we told him no lobster it is out of season. He said okay and did we have some rum to quench his thirst.

As soon as weather permits we will start traveling south to some more tropical islands and snorkeling and diving we hope. We don't have much time left before we have to head up the Rio Dulce for Hurricane season so we are trying to make the most of it. The islands out here are deserted except for fishermen and a few resorts so not much in the way of supplies. We also have not had internet for quite awhile so we will be catching up on emails as soon as we can. We will also have lots of pictures to post!

We are happy, healthy and living well! Cheers Mike and Kim

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Beautiful Belize

We are still hanging in Cay Caulker in Belize. We were able to check in on Tuesday and it was a very easy process. The Immigration and Customs people were extremely nice and it only took about 30 minutes. San Pedro and Cay Caulker are both nice islands and we have enjoyed being here. We are trying to provision the boat, get fuel, propane and laundry done before we leave Cay Caulker. We also have some winds coming in so not sure how long we will be here. We have to pay for internet here and wanted to let you know we received a few emails and will respond when we have internet.

The islands of Belize are beautiful. We are inside a reef that stretches along the entire east coast of Belize. We found the people here to be very friendly and helpful. When we brought our dinghy into the dock at San Pedro the owner of the night club "Big Daddy's Disco", Lazer, came out and says 'Come on in, come in closer, you can lock up and tie up here'. When we asked him where Customs and Immigration was he told us, then called his friend Marnie, in Customs, and told her we were coming. Nice guy, he wanted us to bring our sailboat closer to his docks but we said we were leaving that afternoon.

Cay Caulker is not a very big Island it takes probably 15 minutes to walk from one end of the town to the other. Yesterday we met a man who takes care of cats and dogs on the island and has been doing it for 12 years. We were standing at his gate saying hi to the animals as we usually do and he said come on in! He has about a dozen cats, three new kittens and about 5-6 dogs. He takes care of them and then tries to adopt them out to foreigners. He does not like to adopt them out to the locals, because they keep them only as long as they want, then kick them out the door or try to breed them. It is very sad we saw lots of dogs wandering the streets. He does what he can. We are going to donate some food to him, it seems like all we can do for now. We are looking forward to Island hopping down to the Rio Dulce in Guatemala. We will have plenty of pictures to post when we find some good internet.

Cheers Mike and Kim

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Easter in Belize

Yaaa we made it! We arrived yesterday after a 52 hour sail. It was somewhat bumpy but smoothed out to some beautiful wind and seas the last part of the journey. We came through the reef at San Pedro, Belize yesterday but since officials will not be working until Tuesday we came over to Cay Caulker to rest up in some beautiful waters. We can't really go ashore because we are quarantined until we check in. We had a good sleep last night, no rolly polly, until Mike woke me up and said it was my watch. Ha Ha real funny Mike :).

We will go over to San Pedro Tuesday morning and get the paperwork stuff done and get us some fresh fruits and vegetables. Not sure where we go from here there are lots of islands in Belize and they are all behind a reef, so we will have easy day sails as we hop around. Some friends of ours sailed into the Harbor yesterday afternoon Tom and Colleen on s/v Unplugged. We hope to go scuba diving with them after we get checked in.

We are living at this Latitude and Longitude for the moment N 17.44.780 W 088.02.022. I realized the next day that my last post only had our latitude and longitude, no wind direction, speed or course heading, I must of been in a hurry, it wouldn't of done us much good if we needed help. We have lots of beautiful pics but absolutely no internet so that will have to wait.

Hope everyone had a Happy Easter, love to all our family.

Cheers Mike and Kim

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On the High Seas

We are currently at sea, our position is N19.50.601 W087.16.108. The wind is on our stern (butt) and the seas are 3-5 ft. Still heading for San Pedro, Belize. We saw big turtles and jumping 5-6 ft fish yesterday. We hit a squall at about 3:00 PM yesterday and had lots of rain. All is well. Cheers Mike and Kim

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Off to Belize

We are heading to Belize this morning, can't wait to get to the clear, cool water!  Time for some Scuba Diving.  Below are some pictures from Puerto Morelos.  Cheers Mike and Kim on Ka'imi

Shrimp Enchiladas

Puerto Morelos Beach

Happy Camper

Old Lighthouse washed out by Hurricane

Launchas

El Cid Marina, Puerto Morelos, Mexico

Hanging out in El Cid Marina while this next cold front comes through.  The harbor is currently closed so no boats in or out.  This Marina is really well protected and we feel good being here.  We will take a picture of the anchorage we were going to stay in and post it later.  We will be here for about a week.  We have full use of the hotels pool, hot tub and beach and it's really a nice place :).  Ka'imi is safe and we are relaxing.

We walked about 2 miles into town yesterday and found it to be friendly and quiet.  It's a small resort and fishing town.  It was Sunday yesterday and the port was closed so we saw a lot of fishermen and their families hanging out at the beach and swimming.  We ate at a local restaurant and each had two shrimp tacos with an incredible delicious sauce and a bucket of 5 beers mue bueno!  The waitress was really nice and working on her English.  I (Kim) was working on my Spanish, but she had such a look of bewilderment on her face that we just laughed.  I need Spanish lessons!!!  LOL

We didn't take any pictures yesterday so we are heading back into town today and will post some more pics!

Cheers Mike and Kim on Ka'imi

Puerto Morelos, Mexico

It is Sunday, April 5th and we are now in Puerto Morelos, Mexico. We arrived a few hours ago after spending yesterday and last night in Cancun. We will be staying here until this next cold front passes, not sure how long yet. It is a pretty town/beach we will check it out tomorrow. We had a pretty rough sail today and are very tired. The seas were bigger than the forecasted 4 ft, they were more like 6-8 ft...at one point they just got BIG! We are on a mooring ball, they won't allow you to anchor anymore much to our dismay. We are not sure of the security of the mooring ball, but they are trying to save the reef which is a very good thing! We haven't found any internet here so we may be out of touch for awhile.

Cheers Mike and Kim on Ka'imi

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The Island of Isla Mujeres

Windward side of Isla Mujeres

Playing on the beach

 We rented a golf cart on Monday and toured the island.  We went around several times as it is not that big!  There is not much to see in the way of history and the island is so busy with tourist it almost reminds me of Tijuana.  We found some beautiful spots though and had a really fun day.

Mexican Iguana

The iguanas here do not look like the ones in Florida, they are missing the crown.

Restaurant on the Leeward Side of the Island

Wounded Duck

We stopped and had lunch at this restaurant/hotel on the leeward side of the island.  I had shrimp tostados and Mike had chicken tostados...what we got is 4 chips with a piece of shrimp or meat on it and some guacamole...LOL...I left hungry!  Afterwards we went to a street vendor and got some fish tacos.  The fish was so bad I almost lost it!  Oh well you don't always win.




The people at the restaurant/hotel saw this duck land on their property and it had an injured leg.  The gave it water and tortillas and letting it rest until it gets better.  Maybe the iguana is helping with moral support.

Swimming Hole

Swimming Hole

This is a very nice swimming hole that we found while touring the island.  We went back the next day by dinghy and enjoyed it again!  The water is just the right temperature.  We did some snorkling out by the reef (near our boat) but not much to see and the reef doesn't look that healthy unfortunately.

We are heading out tomorrow (Friday) to overnight off the coast of Cancun the sail south to Puerto Morelos.  We hang out there until the next cold front passes and then head south again!

Cheers Mike and Kim on Ka'imi

Mike and Kim

Life in Isla Mujeres

Fish Tacos!

We were able to make it to Cancun Friday and finish our check in process by getting our Temporary Import Permit (TIP).  I thought I had all the documents copied that I needed but NOT...I needed color copies of 2 more documents.  They will not make copies for you so we grabbed a taxi and went to the color copy place.  We really need to work on our Spanish because we had a hard time telling the driver where we needed to go.  Finally we were able to direct him and he charges us 50 pesos (about $4).  We get our copies for veinte ocho pesos ($2.30) and a very nice women taught me how to pronounce veinte (20) properly!

We finish with the copies and flag down a taxi who takes us back to Customs.  Mike hands him 50 pesos and he gives us change.  He only charged us 30 pesos ($2.30) and he took us farther...we were a little upset the other guy ripped us off.  We finish getting the TIP and dash back to catch the ferry on time.  Mike was looking for the taxi driver who ripped us off but the ferry was pulling into the dock.  We didn't stay in Cancun to check it out because the winds were still blowing 20-25 knots and we didn't want to leave the boat for that long.  We will probably stop back in Cancun on our way south.

Windward side of Isla Mujeres

Right now we are just hanging out, checking out the island.  The wind has died down so we are going to explore some beaches and snorkeling spots in the dinghy today, Sunday.  Monday or Tuesday we will rent a scooter and see the rest of the island.

We are very glad that all the paper work is done, this has been the hardest place yet to check in.  It's hard to believe it has been a week since we arrived, although I think we have destroyed a few too many brain cells in all our celebration of the first port..LOL

Windard side of  Isla Mujeres

There is a walkway on the windward side of the island that goes the distance of the town.

Mexican Doggy didn't speak English

This doggy was hanging out in front of one of the houses, we have to remember to speak to the animals in Spanish or they ignore you!

Street view Isla Mujeres

Typical street view of houses, the other part of town with vendors is much different we will get a picture of that, lots of stuff for sale.

Looking towards the anchorage, weather coming!

There was a storm coming and we did get caught in the rain, but we like that!

Cheers for now!  Mike and Kim on Ka'imi

Isla Mujeres, Mexico

We started to check into the country Monday morning and finally finished Tuesday afternoon when we were boarded by agriculture and customs. It is a long process and we still need to get our TIP (Temporary Import Permit). We had a cold front pass us yesterday (Wednesday) and stayed on the boat all day as the winds were 18-25 knots and the anchorage here does not have very good holding. We are hoping to take the ferry to Cancun on Friday to get our TIP and be done with the process. In the meantime we are checked in and can enjoy the island. Today we need to find a copier that will do color copies of our check in docs to give to the other officials for the TIP.......stay mellow and all will go fine!

It is very beautiful here and we haven't even begun to explore. We have very iffy internet so we can not download pictures. I did manage to get one on facebook this morning, then nothing else.

Cheers for now Mike and Kim on Ka'imi

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WOW......

We have arrived in Isla Mujeres and it is beautiful. Our new backyard is a short reef and Cancun in background, we wish we could post a picture but we can't through the SSB connection. We will post pictures as soon as we, or if we, get an internet connection. We are tired but very happy!

It took 96 hours, 4 nights and 5 days, to get here from Marathon, FL. The trip was not the most comfortable, but nothing unexpected happened so it was an excellent passage. We cannot hail the Puerto Capitain so we can not check in today, which means we have to stay on the boat, quarantined, it is Sunday so we thought that might be the case. We will definitely check in tomorrow and explore the island. We do have all we need on the boat and we can swim in this beautiful water so no loss there.

Wow, Mike and I are so excited to be cruising again! We are unbelievable grateful for our life and our family and friends. Cheers for now, there is a definite need for some relaxation right now!

Mike and Kim on Ka'imi

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Good Saturday Morning!

Well I guess there is nothing wrong with the Pactor Modem it seems to be working fine. I was going to attribute it to operator error caused by being awake in the wee hours of the morning, but, I have concluded that we have a gremlin :)

It is a beautiful day and we are finally sailing after motoring most of yesterday and all last night. We were also dodging freighters and cruise ships most of the night and morning.

As of 1140 we are at N 21.47.401225 W 085.19.690 on a heading 225 degrees. We have a southeast wind @ 10 knots with seas 2-3 feet, great conditions for a sail across the Yucatan Channel. As we round the western coast of Cuba we will sail southwest until we reach N 21.15 to avoid the strongest currents then reach west to Isla Mujeres. Our estimated ETA on Sunday is anytime between 0600 and 1300 depending on winds, current and sea conditions.

I will try to update the blog early because after being sober and sleep deprived for 5 days there will be some serious anchor down beer drinking in Mexico!

Adios from Mike and Kim on Ka'imi

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Friday Morning

Good Morning,

We are currently off the coast of Cuba, have little or no wind and we are motoring probably most of the morning and maybe afternoon. Conditions should get better to sail after that and we should have a good passage over to Isla Mujeres.

Our current position is N 23.00.641 W 083.49.032 on a heading of 258, winds NE @ 5 kts, right on our stern. We are currently motoring at 4.9 knots. Sea state is 1-2 ft.

Yesterday we got across the Gulf Stream near Havana then turned west and are traveling along the coast to catch a counter current which will be west of W 84 degrees. The winds pick up in the afternoon along the Cuban coast so we had 18-25 kts from about 1500 to dusk. The seas were a healthy 3-5 feet with and occasional set of 6-8 feet so that was exciting.....we took naps all afternoon and our watches last night went smooth so we are very rested and we even had a cup of coffee!

Well I am going to try to scramble up some eggs for breakfast, wish me luck as we still have rolly polly seas! Cheers Mike and Kim on Ka'imi

PS I did encounter a little trouble with our pactor modem which sends our messages from the SSB radio last night, so if for some reason you do not hear from us don't stress we will be in Isla Mujeres by Sunday.

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GOOD MORNING!

We have been at sea for approximately 24 hrs. Our current position at 0738 is N 24.48.727 W 082.34.444 we are on a heading of 208 degrees. Weather conditions are good with sunny skies (it was chilly last night and this morning though). We have a 2.1 knot counter current, wind is NE @ 5-9 knots. We have following seas of 3-4 ft and very, very rolly conditions. We are 42 miles off the coast of Havana, Cuba trying to get within 12 Nautical Miles (NM) to catch the counter current.

All is good, we have very sloppy seas so our sleep shifts often ran short, but we will continue to trade off and take naps today and tonight's sail should be much better.

Cheers Mike and Kim on Ka'imi :)

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FINALLY!!! We outta Marathon.

They thought they had us but we are finally leaving Marathon, FL tomorrow at first light and heading toward the Western Caribbean.   The hardest part is leaving our friends and we have made some good ones here and it tears at my heart a lot, but it is the way we live and we always have them in our hearts and in our Facebooks...LOL...  We are going to update our position and stuff for our family so they can keep tabs on us and hopefully some exciting stuff like we saw some whales or have a pod of dolphins on our bow!  Cheers all and we will update when we can.

Mike and Kim on Ka'imi

Preparing for Departure from Boot Key Harbour

Dolphin Jumping @ 7 Mile Bridge

We are just about ready to go!  Finishing up the last minute things such as provisioning, fueling and making the boat sea ready.  We may leave as early as Saturday if the weather holds and make our way down to Key West, the Marqueses, the Dry Tortugas and ultimately Isla Mujeres.  We will then continue to work our way down through Belize and up the Rio Dulce River for Hurricane Season. Mike is healing up nicely and feels ready to go so yippeee!! We have been in Marathon for about 5 years and are definitely ready to go cruising again.

Sunset in the Harbour

The view from our Mooring Ball
Our friends Gale and Mary's House & Dock

View our our new back Window Port

I will update when we leave and if able while we travel to Isla Mujeres.

Cheers Mike and Kim